Egypt

Egypt 2002

Ancient Egypt, with all its' mystery, was our next jaunt.

All credit to Wendy who booked this trip on the internet while I was mountain biking in France.

Nothing prepared us for the temperature as we alighted at Luxor airport. At 1800, it was over 40 degrees C. Neither were we prepared for the instant and relentless calls for 'baksheesh' (tips) - and we hadn't even collected our luggage. Disconcerting. On the bus to our hotel, warnings galore from our Thompson rep made it appear that disembowelment and bloody murder would await us should we be foolish enough to venture from our hotel tonight, before the welcome meeting the next morning.

The hotel (Mecure Inn) was up to scratch, ideally suited in the middle of Luxor and adjacent to Luxor Temple. Without pausing to unpack, we headed out to explore. After running the gauntlet of taxi drivers and shopkeepers (persistent but mostly good natured, even amusing), with a firm 'NO, . .Thank You' , we walked along the Nile on the promenade. After a quick recce, and beer at the New Winter Palace, we investigated some of the local 'Travel Agents'. Ahmed, in Jolly's Travels, appeared sound so after a chat, we discussed an itinerary, sussed out the prices and left.

It quickly became apparent at the 'Welcome Meeting' the next morning why the reps had been so keen for us to stay in. Their prices were almost double what Ahmed had quoted ! Needless to say, we high tailed it back to his office and sorted out our excursions. We were not disappointed.

A sunset trip down the Nile on a 'felucca' was thrown in for free by Ahmed and it was thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing. This was followed by dinner at the Sheraton Hotel and a fantastic 3 course Italian meal. With wine, beers . . it came to £8 each !!

The next morning was the first of our many early starts (0600) - sensible since it was lovely and cool. The ancient temple at Dendara was our destination and a day cruise on the Nile was our vehicle. What an excellent way to see the countryside, with the farmers and their children working the land. They seemed genuinely pleased to see us and a cacophony of their cheery welcome calls followed us. The temple was hugely impressive, as was the buffet lunch back on the boat as we meandered our lazy way back to Luxor. Waiting for us was Ahmed and we were whisked straight off the ''Sound and Light Show' at Karnak Temple. A little 'Americanised' (ie overdone) but nevertheless good value.

Another early start, but this time we were heading off to the coastal resort of Hurgada on the Red Sea for 3 days of beaches and diving. Egypt still suffers the aftermath of the quasi Islamic uprising, which saw 86 tourists massacred in 1997 and the considerable police presence, though meant to reassure us, was quite disconcerting. As a consequence, all tourists have to travel in p0lice convoy outside of the main towns. We joined the 50 strong entourage of coaches and at 0800, we set off to Hurgada.

The hotel was tip top; Ahmed even got us a suite ! Although hot, an on-shore breeze kept us cool and after lunch on the beach, we chilled out. The reef was just 40 yards off the beach and we were able to go snorkelling. Fabulous. We also booked a full day on a local dive boat, which included 2 dives / all gear / lunch / drinks etc . . and all for £30 ! It was a great day out, despite Wendy running out of air on the second dive !

In the evening, we 'discovered' another fabulous Italian Restaurant . . . much to Wendy's delight as the local cuisine has been very hit and miss. Our last day was again spent in chill mode. Our private air-conditioned minibus arrived on time and we headed back to Luxor, again in convoy.

No peace for the wicked. Up at 0-my-god its early for a morning of West Bank culture. (The ancient Egyptians saw the sun rise in the east and set in the west. Since the Nile ran north/south, they associated the east bank with life and the west with death. Hence, most of the temples are on the east bank and conversely, the burial tombs are on the west.)

First stop was the Valley of the Kings - site of Tutankhamen's Tomb. Boy, was it hot - and we had our own air-conditioned minibus.

The Valley of the Kings was a suitably desolate place with no shade, no trees, no wind. Unlike most Indiana Jones films, the tombs are in fact narrow passages leading to a small burial chamber and associated store rooms. Not the caverns we imagined. However, they are fabulously decorated and the colours and detail of the carvings defy their actual 3000 year age. It certainly showed up our present day offering, the Millennium Dome, for what it was; decade dated crap.

We then took in the Valley of the Queens, where most were dumped unceremoniously into vertical crypts . . . before visiting the magnificent Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, site of the aforementioned massacre in 1977. Cut partly into the mountainside rock, it was one of the most impressive temples. However, with the midday sun beating down on us, we were both beginning to suffer from AEO (Ancient Egypt Overload).

The afternoon was spent unashamedly in the hotel pool, quaffing beer and eating chips !! Our last night in Luxor was again spent at the Italian Restaurant in the Sheraton. Again, great food. Since we were not due to depart until the evening, we took the opportunity on our last morning to lie in before visiting Luxor Museum and some last minute shopping using Wendy's newly discovered haggling skills !!

We both agreed that this was a truly great holiday and we were disappointed to leave.